Situated on a high plateau (1495m), the bustling Guatemalan capital possesses all the usual contradictions found in large Latin American cities; elegant tree-lined boulevards and high-rise architecture alongside crowded and deplorable shanties; extreme opulence amid dire poverty. We make a brief orientation tour around the capital to see some of the more interesting sights in the morning and visit the Ixchel museum and then drive to the northern shore of Lake Atitlan via the Mayan site of Iximche - a small site set in a beautiful pine forest. 3 nights hotel, room only. H+.

The volcano-ringed lake is a place of great beauty. Some fifteen miles long by ten wide, it lies at an altitude of 1585m. We stay at Santa Catarina, an ideal base for exploring the area. Wandering around, there are always magnifi-cent views of the impressive volcanic peaks of Atitlan (3537m), San Pedro (2995m) and Toliman (3158m) towering over the lakeside. A short ride from here is the popular lakeside town of Panajachel, where we can enjoy the comfortable climate, relaxed atmosphere and stunning lake setting. We include a boat trip to the southern shore to visit some villages inhabited by Cakchiqueles Indians. We’ ll also visit Santiago and San Pedro and enjoy a dif-ferent perspective of the surrounding volca-noes. The lake changes hue at different times of the day and can appear green, deep blue, or grey, while at sunset it glows fiery red. We have a day to relax, explore, or to take another boat trip to different parts of the lake and take in the spectacular scenery.

Early this morning we drive to the famous mountain village of Chichicastenango, the ‘sacred town’ of the Quiche Indians. The Thursday market is a colorful affair which attracts indians from the surrounding country-side to trade their produce and handicraft. We then embark on an adventurous journey into Cuchumatanes mountains to an area inhabited by the Ixil people. The drive is spectacular as we wind our way up through valleys and over hills, passing gushing rivers, heading north from Sacapulas. The last section of road is poor and the going slow, but the scenery more than makes up for any discomfort. Finally we arrive at Nebaj, our base in the mountains. There is something almost mystical about Nebaj, our base in the mountains, with its narrow streets, whitewashed walls and an old colonial church. Few visitors reach this remote area, so the available accommodation is simple.
2 nights basic hotel with two dinners and two breakfast. H.

The Ixil are famous for their fine weaving (some of the best to be found in Guatemala), especially the geometric designs in purple, green, yellow and red on the huipiles (blous-es) worn by the Indian women. We spend the day exploring and plan to follow a trail to the neighboring valley. Weather permitting, we will enjoy good views of the mountain range as we walk up over a pass and descend to the village of Acul. We are bound to come across colorfully dressed Ixil Indians using the trails, but there are certainly few other foreigners in this isolated area. Visitors should be careful and respect sensibilities when photographing indigenous Indians, who are generally very friendly and often in traditional dress, but who may cover their faces to ward off the camera’s ‘evil eye’.

From Nebaj we continue through a wild and little known part of Guatemala, along rough roads. This is arguably one of the most scenic mountain routes in Guatemala, heading east towards Uspantan and Cunen. It is a long day’s drive through varied scenery and we shall have plenty of opportunity to visit some of the small communities en route. This evening we arrive deep in the highland rainforest at the Biotopo del Quetzal, a wildlife reserve and home of the national bird, the resplendent Quetzal. Overnight lodge with dinner and breakfast. H+

Very early in the morning is the best time to go bird watching; if we are lucky we may see the elusive Quetzal which feeds on the fruit of the aguacatillo tree at dawn. The Quetzal was sacred to the ancients of Central America and the plumed serpent god Quetzalcoatl was a supreme deity. Killing a quetzal was punishable by death and the 2ft long iridescent green tail feathers were worth more than gold itself. Later we drive along the main highway in to Honduras, to stay close to the fantastic Mayan ruins of Copan. 2 nights hotel, room only. H+.

Everyone familiar with Catherwood’s incredible drawings (which first appeared in John Stephens’ 1841 narrative - ‘Incidents of Travel in Central America and Yucatan’) will recognise scenes and objects from this marvelous site. Stephens actually bought the entire site for US$50 from a local farmer! The Great Plaza is one of the most amazing achievements of the Classic Maya period (AD 750) and contains the greatest collection of Maya sculpture anywhere in Meso America. The famous Hieroglyphic Stairway is composed of 2500 individual glyphs; its sides are flanked by serpentine birds and snakes. In Copan the Maya reached their artistic and cultural apogee, achieving both beauty and order. We have the whole day to enjoy this special place. The afternoon is free to visit the excel-lent museum dedicated to the site, or to go horse riding. Alternatively it is possible to visit, some nearby hotsprings (optional). We‘ll travel by pick-up truck through tiny agricultural villages situated in a lush tropical setting.

First we make for Puerto Barrios stopping en route at Quirigua to admire the fine Maya carvings, covered with intricate glyphs which still remain a mystery to scholars and archeologists. Quirigua was dominated by Copan but was valued as a trading center for the jade that can be found throughout the surrounding area. Independence from Copan was finally achieved under Quirigua's most powerful leader, Cavac Sky in 737AD. We drive on to Puerto Barrios and then take a boat trip across the bay to lazy, laid back. Livingston on the Carribean coast. Here we can enjoy the colourful, lively Garifuna town, with its unique racial blend. In the evening there may be the chance to hear the increasingly popular local music or enjoy the fresh seafood in one of the many restaurants along the main street. Overnight hotel, room only. H+.

This morning we board a motorboat and head up river to Rio Dulce. The river squeezes through an impressive gorge, the towering cliffs covered in a mass of jungle creepers. We arrive at Rio Dulce, pulling in to a small jetty. Look out for alligators, parakeets and possibly manatees. We may take a trip around the lagoon, visiting the Castillo de San Felipe built by the Spaniards to guard the entrance to Lake Izabal from British pirates (optional). In the afternoon we continue by bus to Flores. Overnight hotel, room only. H+.

This morning we drive a short distance to Tikal, possibly the greatest of all the Mayan cities, located in the heart of the Peten jungle. The ruins of Tikal can easily be compared with the masterpieces of Egypt and Greece. Discovered in 1848, they comprise five great temples and pyramids. Initially settled about 600 BC, Tikal was abandoned by its rulers around AD 890 and totally deserted a hundred years later. The city covers an area of more than 16 square kilometres with temples, palaces, causeways, ballcourts, spacious plazas, and hundreds of other architectural ruins a superb example of sophisticated Maya engi-neering. The site is so large we leave you free to explore at your own pace. Those with a good head for heights could climb one of the temples which pierce the jungle canopy for splendid views over the area. Overnight hotel with dinner and breakfast. H+.

We recommend rising with the sun - the last time to see (and hear) the vast range of birdlife in the jungle. After a morning at Tikal we have a chance to explore the lovely town of Flores, the last Indian stronghold in Guatemala. Situated on a small island on the tranquil Lake Peten Itza and joined to the mainland by a causeway, Flores remains a quaint and peaceful town. In the afternoon we take a flight back to Guatemala City and drive a short distance to the charming city of Antigua. 2 nights hotel, room only. H+.

Antigua Guatemala is set in a beautiful valley between the volcanoes Agua, Fuego and Acatenango. An orientation tour of this graceful old colonial city shows how it can justly claim to be one of the loveliest in Central America despite the damage caused by a series of earthquakes over the ages. The afternoon is free to wander the timeless streets and hunt for souvenirs.

Drive to Guatemala City airport mid morning, where tour ends.